Bristol's Garden Vineyards: Foot-Stomping Grapes in Urban Spaces
Each quarter of an hour or so, an ageing diesel railway carriage pulls into a spray-painted station. Close by, a police siren cuts through the near-constant traffic drone. Daily travelers rush by collapsing, ivy-covered garden fences as storm clouds form.
It is maybe the last place you anticipate to find a well-established grape-growing plot. But James Bayliss-Smith has managed to four dozen established plants heavy with round purplish grapes on a sprawling allotment sandwiched between a row of 1930s houses and a commuter railway just above Bristol downtown.
"I've noticed individuals concealing illegal substances or other items in those bushes," says Bayliss-Smith. "Yet you simply continue ... and keep tending to your vines."
The cameraman, forty-six, a filmmaker who also has a fermented beverage company, is among several local vintner. He's pulled together a informal group of growers who make wine from four discreet city grape gardens nestled in back gardens and allotments across Bristol. It is too clandestine to have an formal title so far, but the group's messaging chat is named Vineyard Dreams.
City Wine Gardens Across the World
To date, Bayliss-Smith's plot is the only one registered in the City Vineyard Network's upcoming global directory, which includes better-known city vineyards such as the 1,800 plants on the slopes of Paris's historic artistic district area and more than three thousand vines with views of and within the Italian city. Based in Italy non-profit association is at the vanguard of a initiative reviving city vineyards in historic wine-producing countries, but has discovered them all over the world, including urban centers in East Asia, Bangladesh and Central Asia.
"Grape gardens help cities remain greener and more diverse. These spaces preserve open space from construction by creating long-term, productive agricultural units within cities," explains the organization's leader.
Similar to other vintages, those created in cities are a product of the earth the vines grow in, the unpredictability of the weather and the individuals who care for the fruit. "A bottle of wine embodies the beauty, community, environment and history of a city," adds the spokesperson.
Unknown Eastern European Variety
Returning to the city, the grower is in a urgent timeline to gather the vines he grew from a cutting left in his allotment by a Polish family. If the rain arrives, then the birds may seize their chance to feast once more. "Here we have the enigmatic Eastern European variety," he says, as he removes bruised and mouldy grapes from the shimmering clusters. "We don't really know what variety they are, but they are certainly disease-resistant. Unlike noble varieties – Pinot Noir, white wine grapes and additional renowned European varieties – you don't have to spray them with pesticides ... this could be a special variety that was developed by the Soviets."
Group Activities Throughout the City
The other members of the group are additionally taking advantage of sunny interludes between showers of fall precipitation. On the terrace overlooking Bristol's shimmering waterfront, where medieval merchant vessels once floated with casks of vintage from France and the Iberian peninsula, one cultivator is collecting her rondo grapes from approximately fifty plants. "I love the smell of the grapevines. The scent is so reminiscent," she remarks, stopping with a basket of grapes slung over her shoulder. "It recalls the fragrance of southern France when you roll down the car windows on vacation."
Grant, 52, who has devoted more than two decades working for humanitarian organizations in conflict zones, inadvertently took over the grape garden when she returned to the UK from Kenya with her household in recent years. She felt an strong responsibility to look after the grapevines in the garden of their new home. "This vineyard has previously survived three different owners," she explains. "I deeply appreciate the idea of natural stewardship – of handing this down to future caretakers so they can keep cultivating from this land."
Terraced Vineyards and Natural Winemaking
Nearby, the final two members of the collective are hard at work on the steep inclines of Avon Gorge. One filmmaker has cultivated over one hundred fifty vines situated on terraces in her wild half-acre garden, which descends towards the muddy local waterway. "People are always surprised," she says, gesturing towards the interwoven vineyard. "It's astonishing to them they can see rows of vines in a city street."
Currently, the filmmaker, sixty, is picking bunches of dusty purple dark berries from rows of vines slung across the cliff-side with the assistance of her child, her family member. The conservationist, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has worked on Netflix's Great National Parks series and television network's Gardeners' World, was inspired to cultivate vines after seeing her neighbor's grapevines. She has learned that hobbyists can make interesting, pleasurable natural wine, which can command prices of upwards of £7 a glass in the growing number of establishments focusing on low-processing wines. "It is deeply rewarding that you can actually create good, traditional vintage," she says. "It is quite fashionable, but really it's reviving an traditional method of making wine."
"When I tread the grapes, the various wild yeasts are released from the skins and enter the liquid," says the winemaker, partially submerged in a bucket of tiny stems, seeds and red liquid. "That's how vintages were historically produced, but industrial wineries introduce preservatives to kill the wild yeast and subsequently incorporate a lab-grown culture."
Challenging Conditions and Inventive Solutions
In the immediate vicinity sprightly retiree another cultivator, who motivated his neighbor to establish her grapevines, has gathered his companions to harvest white wine varieties from the 100 vines he has arranged precisely across two terraces. Reeve, a northern English PE teacher who taught at the local university developed a passion for wine on annual sporting trips to Europe. But it is a challenge to cultivate Chardonnay grapes in the dampness of the gorge, with temperature fluctuations sweeping in and out from the Bristol Channel. "I wanted to produce Burgundian wines in this location, which is somewhat ambitious," says the retiree with a smile. "Chardonnay is late to ripen and very sensitive to fungal infections."
"I wanted to make European-style vintages here, which is rather ambitious"
The unpredictable Bristol climate is not the only challenge faced by grape cultivators. Reeve has been compelled to erect a fence on